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March 30-April 1, 2024 – Castle, Cathedral, Portixol, Nuredduna

Michael stayed on the boat on Saturday. I visited two main sights: Castell de Bellver and Catedral-Basílica de Santa María de Mallorca.

Bellver Castle is undoubtedly one of the most original, emblematic buildings in Mallorca’s history. It was built between 1300 and 1311 on the instructions of the King James II of Mallorca. However, the criterion behind the construction of Bellver Castle was defensive strategies planned by the Royal House of Mallorca. It was also conceived as a fortified palace where governors could safely take refuge in times of jeopardy and the monarchs used for longer or shorter stays.

It has a very specific original design, made up of a Gothic building that forms a perfect shape, with four big towers facing the four points of the compass. The keep faces north and it is separate from the rest of the castle, while the other towers are buttressed to the main body.

Some of the most remarkable architectural features on the outer façade of Bellver Castle are its arched mullion windows. Found on the upper story, they comprise two narrow semi-circular arches separated by a column.  This kind of window, which can also be found inside the building, is fairly typical of Palma’s medieval architecture.

Work on the first moat that surrounds the castle was carried out in 1330. The moat prevented enemies from invading the castle, while also increasing its relative height. After this alteration to the castle, it saw few modifications. Only an outer ravelin surrounding the first moat and the third curtain wall were added, both related to the introduction and development of artillery on the island.

Okay, do you know what a ravelin is? I did not. This is the definition: “A ravelin is a V-shaped fortification built outside a castle’s main ditch to cover the area between two bastions. It has two embankments at a salient angle, and is located in front of the innerworks of a fortress, such as the bastions and curtain walls. The word ravelin comes from the Italian word rivellino, which is a diminutive of the word riva, meaning “rim” or “bank”. The word originated in Middle French between 1580 and 1590.”

Google Maps took me through town first, then on a nice little nature trail, then to the stairs. There are more stairs than pictured below.

I am sharing an external picture of the castle from the air from a website with free images (I am not being naughty). It is the only way to get a good idea of the structure. The other photos are mine.

Bellver Castle
Bellver Castle keep

As per usual, the views on the way to and from the castle were lovely.

The next stop was the Catedral-Basílica de Santa María de Mallorca. We’d seen it many times from the outside, but this was my first opportunity to see it from the inside. And, boy, was the inside stunning!

Here are some random bits of information about the Cathedral.

The construction of the Cathedral began in the 13th century and was completed in the 1630s. The history of the Cathedral is closely linked to the native monarchy. After the conquest of Madina Mayurqa in 1229, James I, king of Aragon and count of Barcelona, ​​ordered the consecration of the old main mosque to the Virgin Mary as a temple for Christian worship and also the construction of a new floor of another temple that It was in accordance with the style of that time, taking advantage of part of the space of the old mosque. The Cathedral belongs to the Mediterranean Gothic tradition, but over the centuries, it has incorporated the cultural forms of modern and contemporary times.

Some of the Cathedral’s towers reach over 20 meters and the Cathedral contains one of the largest stained glass windows in the world (with more than 1,200 pieces). The sight, also known as La Seu, has a baldachin or canopy over the altar by Gaudí, and an unusual chapel representing the miracle of the loaves and fishes designed by contemporary Mallorcan artist Miquel Barceló.  The legacy of Gaudí’s work has traveled throughout the 20th century in the process of opening the stained glass windows and in the artistic updating at the service of the liturgy.

This next chapel was one of my favorites because it includes the Lady of Navigation. She is holding the Christ Child in one hand and a boat in the other. Cool!

The next four pictures are of the “unusual chapel” mentioned above, representing the miracle of the loaves and fishes designed by contemporary Mallorcan artist Miquel Barceló. It was hands-down my favorite chapel due to its appearance. I must admit that I felt like I was in a sci-fi movie, though.

The next few pictures include the baldachin over the altar by Gaudí. I had never seen one of these before and I was quite taken by it. In case you are wondering where/what it is, it is the big thing hanging from the ceiling. It sort of looks like a crown, but it isn’t round. (I am not Catholic, for those who might wonder. I just thought you might want to know. It is of no consequence.)

Just a few more pics . . .

Okay, I am guessing you’ve seen enough of the interior of the Cathedral! 😉

I was quite hungry by this point so I had some lunch at a restaurant very near to the Cathedral. I noticed that the numerous tents we’d seen our first day in Palma (and when we watched the runners finish their race) were now open. It was an art fair!! I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the various booths and smelling the yummy aromas from those selling food. I didn’t buy anything, but it tied a bow on my already perfect day!

I took myself on a walk to Portixol on Monday. I’d read that it and a nearby town were places one might visit. I mostly wanted to walk, and it was nice to have a destination. Boy was it windy that day! The wind actually blew me (and others) around a bit. The most enjoyable thing for me was watching the waves coming in off the sea. Of course, I love the sea, so. . .

I should mention that in addition to wanting to get out and about, I wanted to see the statue of a woman called Nuredduna. It was created in 1975 by the Mallorquin artist Remigia Caubet, an iconic figure of Mallorca.

There is a haunting story behind it.

Nuredduna fell madly in love with Melesigeni. He spoke a foreign tongue and she could not understand his words. However this was not necessary as they communicated through music; he played the lyre and sang, while she, hopelessly in love, disobeyed her people and helped him to escape. The tribe could not forgive her for this treachery and Nuredduna was sentenced to death by stoning, accused of aiding the Grecian Melesigeni to escape. Mortally wounded, Nuredduna managed to drag herself to the cave where she had hidden her beloved and there her body was found, holding the lyre, the instrument that spoke the universal language, the language of love.

A most beautiful representation of Nuredduna is Remigia Caubet González’s statue. She is looking out to sea, waiting for her beloved to return.

See, I told you it was haunting. The statue is beautiful!!!

I arrived in Portixol. I didn’t see that there was a lot to do and it was happy hour time so I had a glass of wine at a hotel restaurant/bar. The hotel is near a marina. Here are some pics of the marina and from my windy walk back to Seahike.

Michael was in the mood for seafood so we decided to eat dinner at the restaurant by our marina. Sadly, he couldn’t get what he wanted so he had steak. I had this really intriguing salad. Happily, it had quite a few big shrimp in it, so I gave three to Michael. He got at least a tiny amount of seafood!

We left Palma the next day. More on that in the next post.

March 26-29, 2024 – Palma, Sóller, Historic Train/Tram, Good Friday

Michael and I walked around Palma on the 26th. It is such an eclectic and historic city with interesting architecture and an energetic vibe. We wanted to experience more of it.

The two buildings pictured below, Can Forteza Rey and El Águila, located in Plaza del Marqués del Palmer in Palma, were probably our favorites. They are so closely linked that they seem to be one building. They represent different examples of modernist architecture.

Can Forteza Rey was designed by modernist jeweler Lluís Forteza-Rey. It is an example of Modernist-Art Nouveau architecture. The building’s facade is decorated in the same style as its interior, and shows a strong influence from Catalan Modernism, especially the works of Gaudí. The building dates from 1909 and it was assigned to family housing. The façade is decorated with trencadís (a Gaudi inspired kind of broken mosaic tile) and has twisted iron railings, as well as a stone grotesque under the bay windows. Another interesting feature are the traditional Majorcan shutters with their less than traditional shape. It is now occupied by a dental office and other businesses.

The building of El Águila was built in 1908 by architect Gaspar Bonasera in the art Deco style – an eclectic style which is a synthesis of modernism and Neoclassicism. On the facade are balconies with wavy iron railings, polychrome ceramics, and an abundance of vegetable items. The El Águila building offers a beautiful solution to the structural need to create large bays and meet the commercial demand that it was created for. The geometric iron structure with oversized rivets on the first floor, evolves into vegetal shapes on the upper railings and presents a sharp contrast to the multi-colored ceramic and decorative rounded arch that finish off the building.

When I sent this picture to Heather, she replied, “Makes me want to go to the dentist.” She’s a funny one, she is! 🙂 🙂

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March 20-24, 2024 – The Second of Two Beautiful Balearic Islands!

It was time to go to Mallorca. We traveled 25 nm from the anchorage on Minorca to the one on Mallorca. We anchored at Cala Moltó, on the northeast side of Mallorca. We were the only boat in the bay. 🙂 We anchored in sand in 11 feet of beautiful clear water. We took the dinghy ashore and walked to the town. We were surprised and delighted to find that we’d anchored right next to a nature reserve! We walked through a beautiful forest of trees before reaching a beach right next to the one at which we had anchored.

We stopped at a little German restaurant located next to a car rental. It wasn’t exactly a pretty area, but the chicken nuggets and accompanying sauce were the best we’ve had!

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March 15-19, 2024 – The First of Two Beautiful Balearic Islands!

We left Sardinia on March 13th to take the 200 nm trip to Minorca. We got to Minorca on the 15th. We’d heard that the Balearic Islands were beautiful, and we were not disappointed! In fact, we were rather stunned by their beauty!

Our first anchorage in Minorca was Calo Roig. We arrived at 2:30 a.m., so we didn’t know what it looked like until the next morning.

We cannot say enough good things about this anchorage. It is gorgeous, has a nice walking path on shore, and a beautiful beach. We anchored easily (even in the dark) in sand. Good holding. We took the dinghy ashore and enjoyed the short hike.

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March 5-12, 2024 – Seahike has a Clean Bum; Tunisia to Sardinia

The last time we saw Seahike, she had a very dirty bum. When we went to the boatyard to check her out then splash her, she looked like a new boat! She’d been polished (sides and top), her bum’s nicks had been repaired and she had new antifouling paint. In addition, her engines had received some TLC, she had new sacrificial anodes, and her saildrive had received some attention.

Regarding the last thing, our starboard engine had been shaking a bit for some time. Michael asked the mechanic to check the saildrive while Seahike was on the hard. The mechanic discovered that the propeller shaft was slightly warped. We provided the requested parts and he replaced them. The problem with having the boat on the hard is that you can’t run the engine to see if the “fix” actually fixed the problem. (Spoiler alert: it didn’t.)

The downside to being on the hard is that two of Seahike’s front windows cracked. One by the portlight on the port side and one on the portlight on the starboard side. Dang. The one on the starboard side is big. The one on the port side is about three inches tops.

Here’s our “new” girl:

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February 29, 2024 – Annecy and Answers to the Quiz

We visited Annecy on the last day of February, which happened to fall on a Leap Year.

Annecy is an alpine town in the south-east of France, with a population of over 50,000 inhabitants. It is located on the border with Switzerland. The city is crossed by the Le Thiou river, which flows directly into Lake Annecy. Annecy has a superb historic center, and is crossed by numerous canals and pedestrian streets. The city is also called “Little Venice of the Alps.”

It was absolutely beautiful in my opinion. How lovely it was to see the mountains in the distance next to the lake with crystal clear water! It is fun to just walk about and enjoy the views of the town and its surroundings.

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February 28, 2024 – Lyon and the Cinema and Miniature Museum

NOTICE TO READERS: Today’s post is quite long and mostly about movies.

Michael wanted to take it easy the first half of the day in Lyon, so I walked to the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière and Théâtre Gallo Romain de Lyon-Fourvière by myself then met Michael at the funicular.

One of the first things I saw on my walk was the Place des Jacobins, a square located in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon. It was created in 1556. It lies on a former Jacobin convent, which was destroyed in 1808. It is named after the Jacobin monks, who resided in the building. The white marble fountain standing in the middle of the square was sculpted in 1885 by Gaspard André. It represents four famous local artists and has four sirens.

Another thing that caught my eye was this statue. I didn’t know what it was but it was intriguing, so I took a picture. I have since learned that it is called The Weight of Oneself. A marble figure almost three meters high, it appears to be a savior. But upon closer reflection you can see that the man is carrying his double, and in so doing becomes his own savior but also his own millstone. These philosophical concerns echo the questions of civil and individual responsibilities which are debated every day in the nearby Palais de Justice. The artists are Michael Elmgreen & Ingar Dragset.

The Weight of Oneself
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February 26-27, 2024 – Beautiful Avignon and Marseille!

The last time we posted we were at the Beehive in Montpellier. We were still on the fast track through southern France, so we took the train to Avignon the next day, visited, then took a later afternoon train to Marseille. I know.

We spent enough time in Avignon to get a feel for the town. We left our luggage at a locker at the train station which left us free to enjoy our visit.

Our first visit was to the Palace of the Popes. The Palais des Papes is one of the largest and most important medieval Gothic buildings in Europe. Once a fortress and palace, the papal residence was a seat of Western Christianity during the 14th century. Six papal conclaves were held in the Palais, leading to the elections of Benedict XII in 1334, Clement VI in 1342, Innocent VI in 1352, Urban V in 1362, Gregory XI in 1370 and Benedict XIII in 1394. Since 1995, the Palais des Papes has been classified, along with the historic center of Avignon, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, for its outstanding architecture and historical importance for the papacy.

I am going to share some pictures of the actual space compared to that displayed on the histopad.

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February 22-25, 2024 – Disneyland Paris and More!

We went to our doctors’ appointments – and my very critical hair appointment – saw a few friends and family members in Minnesota then flew back to Paris. Our goal for this trip was to visit Disneyland Paris and parts of southern France.

We landed at 6:00 a.m. Our hotel wasn’t available until 2:00 p.m. We had given ourselves a “day of rest” so we had nothing pressing. We found a lovely little cafe at the end of the block near our hotel. We first sipped cups of coffee at a snail’s pace, then ordered something for lunch. We absolutely adored the cafe! The coffee was wonderful and we were happy to relax in a lovely setting while we worked very hard to stay awake before going back to the hotel.

We arrived a second time at the hotel between noon and 1:00 p.m. We headed to their small eating area that included some sofas. I sank down on one sofa and listened to Michael chat with guests. Before I knew it, it was time to check in. Michael informed me that I had been snoring and capturing the attention of other guests. Oops!

We took a nap (a second one for me, apparently) and went to the same cafe for dinner. At that point, we were all about location.

Our second day was devoted to Disneyland Paris.

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February 11-12, 2024 – Paris in the Winter!

We had to schedule a trip to the US in February to see some doctors. We decided to spend a couple of days in Paris before going to the US then spend eight more days in France on our return trip.

The Musée d’Orsay is on the Left Bank of the Seine. It is housed in the former Gare d’Orsay, a Beaux-Arts railway station built between 1898 and 1900. The museum holds mainly French art dating from 1848 to 1914, including paintings, sculptures, furniture, and photography.

To be completely honest, the main reason I wanted to visit the Musée d’Orsay was to see the view from the clock. We never did find the view from the clock, but we enjoyed our visit, especially the sculptures. Here are just a few pictures of the museum and the sculptures on display.

This next sculpture – Ugolin -has a rather dark back story.

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