We all (three buddy boats) left Carriacou for the island of Grenada on the 12th. Two of us went around the east side of the island, which meant that the waves were a bit higher since they were coming from the Atlantic. They probably averaged around six feet and were on or just abaft of the beam. There was a decent interval, so the sailing was comfortable. When we rounded the SE corner of the island the waves were behind us, which is always comfortable. Our third buddy boat sailed down the west side of the island, as they had a reservation at a marina on that side. We will see them again, though.

Michael and I stopped in Prickly Bay to get diesel and water, then picked up our mooring ball (using our lovely buoy catcher again!) in True Blue Bay. Wingo is moored in Prickly Bay.

Leaving Carriacou:

We and our two buddy boats motored to the Tobago Cays on June 2nd. On the 3rd, we swam ashore and climbed to the top of the little hill by the anchorage. No matter where we looked, the views were stunning!

We are still buddy boating with Wingo and Deuces Wild. We left Bequia on the 28th and two of us stopped at Isle A Quatre to snorkel. It is just a seven-ish nm sail from Bequia to the island:

We went to the big bay on the south side of the island. There was a nice variety of fish, including a decent-size barracuda. The coral wasn’t all that great and not very colorful. But we enjoyed the snorkeling!

Here are some pics of the short passage and of leaving the bay.

Greg and I started our hike up Mount Peggy (Peggy’s Rock, “Ma Peggy”) at 6:30 a.m. so we could finish before it got too hot. This is a moderate hike. Too much of it is on the road for my taste, but the views are nice throughout most of the hike. Here’s a description from AllTrails:

Map:

I generally like museums, but the Bequia Heritage Museum was special to me. I credit the two docents. The stories they told, the songs, the history. . . it was all incredible.

But first we (Cathie, Greg, Michael and me) had to get there. We walked the uphill and downhill and uphill and downhill route to the museum from the anchorage. The views along the way were quite nice. The houses are so colorful!

We left Martinique on May 10, bound for St. Lucia. It didn’t go so well.

We’d sailed about 2.5 hours when our port engine started smoking. This was after bashing into the waves and even burying under one particularly big wave. Then we started losing speed with just the starboard engine running (we shouldn’t have lost speed), so we were thinking that something had gotten wrapped around the prop.

So we turned around and stayed at an anchorage on Martinique. It was lovely and peaceful.

I chillaxed on Seahike for a bit, then dove down to check the props, both of which were clear. If something had been wrapped around them, it had come off, possibly when Michael ran the engine hard in reverse.

The smoking engine was due to a broken impeller. I replaced it.

So we were good to go again, but we waited one more day for the weather to improve a bit.

Here are some pictures of Martinique as we left and the anchorage where we stayed two nights.

Mount Pelée had been calling to me ever since I started researching Martinique. It seemed to be a pretty tough climb so I was hesitant. I always want to finish what I start so I would only be happy with myself if I made it to the top.

There are many options for hiking Mount Pelée. I chose the L’Aileron trail. Here’s the info from AllTrails:

Length: 4.6 mi
Elevation gain: 10,820 ft
Type: Loop

Proceed cautiously on this 4.6-mile loop trail near Le Morne-Rouge, Saint-Pierre. Generally considered a highly challenging route, it should only be attempted by experienced adventurers. This is a very popular area for birding, camping, and hiking, so you’ll likely encounter other people while exploring. The trail is open year-round and is beautiful to visit anytime. The hike to the crater rim from Aileron is moderate. The track is generally in good condition and very busy. There are a few scrambles and it’s muddy in places, so wear hiking boots or good shoes. The counterclockwise walk starts out easy then becomes moderate as you approach the north end. If you continue to the end, the second half is tough! Long vertical climbs on wet rocks, dense mist and strong winds most of the time. In the second half you are walking in the caldera and it is amazing.

This is the map of the hike as well as screenshots of the preview of the trail:

We had a few days to ourselves before we flew to the US. Here are some scenes from one of the walks I took near the marina.

La Savane des Esclaves (The Savannah of the Slaves) is a tour through 400 years of the history of Martinique. It is a representation of the old Martinican traditions, with its huts and habitats of yesteryear. Set in a botanical garden, it offers a pleasant view.

You are invited into an ancient Amerindian village with its traditional houses, typical of Martinique. Through a park of three hectares, you will discover a reconstruction of the authentic Creole hut. In each hut, you will find surprising information about the daily life of yesteryear. Antique objects and furniture are displayed to help you imagine daily life and traditions. Immerse yourself in the history of 400 years ago until the abolition of slavery. Learn more about the ancestors, but also the customs of Martinique and its natural beauty.

Gilbert Larose is the creator of the Savane des Esclaves in the countryside of Trois-Ilets. The project is realistic and authentic: materials and techniques of yesteryear are used to reconstitute the Creole hut. Twenty-five Gaulette huts (made with gaulette braided branches and thatched roof) and traditional huts made of original wood, cane leaf roofs, dirt paths: nothing has been left to chance to immerse yourself in an early 19th century Amerindian village. You will discover in particular the history of the Neg Marron. He is a slave who fled the plantations and his master’s property to take refuge in nature. Together, these slaves freed from their chains created a way of life with specific customs and a local language.

Caroline and I had a girls’ day on the 23rd. We decided to hike the Canal de Beauregard. From AllTrails:

“4.5-mile out-and-back trail near Fonds-Saint-Denis, Saint-Pierre. Generally considered a moderately challenging route, it takes an average of 2 h 7 min to complete. Highlights include stunning views and a pleasant ambiance along the canal. Challenges are narrow paths and vertigo risk.”

Info from https://azmartinique.com/:

Built in 1760, it owes its name “Canal de Beauregard” to the man who conceived it, Mr. Beauregard. It was subsequently appointed “Canal des Esclaves” to honor the men who carried on their backs stone for its construction.

It was once a vestige of the economic life of the 18th century. Its main purpose was to supplement traditional energy sources. It was also used to carry water from the river Carbet to the houses of the Caribbean Coast and to irrigate crops.

The hike is not recommended for those prone to vertigo, as the coping (cemented band) of the channel is only 30 cm wide in some places and it overlooks ravines over 100 meters deep.

Here are some pictures of the path, the canal and views along the way: